Ambar Ramirez
“In the water, we’re all equal.”
Words & photos by Ambar Ramirez
For some, it’s a fear, for others, it’s a way of life. Encompassing approximately 71% of Earth, the ocean extends its salty blue expanse over more than half of our landmass, complete with powerful currents and a myriad of sea creatures. Interestingly, scientists possess more knowledge about space than the liquid mass that envelops our globe. Yet, for surfers worldwide, the ocean isn’t just a vast, obscure expanse; it’s their home.
And for three generations, Motes Militia has been riding Jacksonville’s waves and teaching younger generations how to do the same.
It all began with John (JD) Motes. Born and raised in Miami, Motes grew up along the coast. Going to the beach and seeing surfers was a part of his everyday routine. And before he knew it his friend’s dad would make a surfboard out of plywood, and they would hit the waves. More and more experience in the water led to renting professional boards and a $99 pop out.
We won’t get into all the nitty gritty details of how exactly Motes learned how to surf or how the 1966 film “The Endless Summer” inspired him to take surfing more seriously. But we will get into the details of a moment that would change the trajectory of his life (and Motes Militia) — a notice that he was drafted to go to Vietnam.
“When I was young they had the draft and they had this lottery thing where they put everybody’s birthdays on a number and put them in a basket that they would then draw. My number was 24,” Motes recalled. “So I kind of knew when they drew my number 24 that in a few months I would be called and sure enough, I got the notice in the mail that I was going to be inducted, and I didn’t want to go in the Army because that was an absolute trip to Vietnam.”
In an effort to avoid the trip to Vietnam, Motes sought help from the Coast Guard in Miami who helped him get into the Navy. Following his completion of boot camp and subsequent discharge, Motes found himself stationed in Jacksonville.
“It was perfect because I had the ocean close by and relatives in town,” Motes said. “[My son] Jason came along a couple of years later in ’72, and that’s what set us in motion in Jacksonville.”
Jason recalled learning how to surf as soon as he was able to walk.
“I remember little phases of being a little kid and learning to surf. I remember he [JD] had a long board that he had broken up, glassed it and put a fin on the bottom of it. That was my first surfboard, and I remember that,” he said. “[But] I don’t remember learning how to surf. You know, I’ve just always done it.”
By the age of 3, Jason was surfing and by 5 he was competing in surfing contests. In no time, Jason was East Coast surfing champion with 35 wins under his belt, a two time U.S. surfing champion and 2020’s National Scholastic Surfing Association’s Coach of the Year.
Still, with all that success in competing, Jason went down another route in the surfing community.
“Professionally, surfing is a very hard thing to get into, you know, as far as money and stuff,” Jason said. “But I found a niche locally outside of contests.”
With the beach in their backyard, Jason started teaching his neighbors’ kids how to surf. In the same way that surfing came naturally to Jason, so did coaching. Over time, what began as teaching his neighbors’ kids expanded to include any children interested in surfing. This initiative evolved into what is now known as Motes Militia. A year-round surf camp that teaches kids of all levels how to surf and care for the ocean.
“There weren’t a lot of surf coaches back then,” Jason recalled. “And then all of a sudden, you know, it got real popular coaching kids and surf camps and stuff. Luckily, we have grass roots here at this beach community that it’s been very successful as far as people wanting to use our camps for their beginners and then these kids staying with us and moving into our advanced group.”
Along with Motes Militia, Jason also coaches the Eastern Surfing Association’s all-star team which is made up of some of the top surfers on the East Coast.
“Between the local kids and then my East Coast kids,” Jason said, “I’ve just been blessed enough to find a niche.”
Jason, JD, Jason’s son Josh and their team are not just coaching young surfers (groms) but are instilling skills acquired in the water that can be seamlessly applied to various aspects of their lives.
“We’ve had several kids that get out there that don’t want to be because they don’t want any part of it, because of fear,” Jason said. “We get them in the water and get them into a couple waves and the next thing you know, you can’t get them out of the water. That moment right there could change that child’s life forever. The way he approaches confidence, all kinds of different situations, not just surfing.”
Motes Militia is a family affair and any kid who decides they want to join the camp, innately becomes a part of the family.
“It’s just amazing because I care about all of them. Every kid that’s there, they’re family,” Jason said.
For more information or to register, check out motesmilitia.com.
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