Combined Minds: The girlies talk jazz in Jax

Words by Ambar Ramirez and Carmen Macri

Carmen: When you think of jazz hubs in the South, New Orleans is probably the first place that comes to mind, right? But believe it or not, Jacksonville was actually one of the first major jazz hubs in the region.

Ambar: It all began after the Civil War when Jacksonville became a hub for African-American cultural exchange with New Orleans. Icons like James Weldon Johnson (famously known for his park), Zora Neale Hurston, Ma Rainey and Jelly Roll Morton helped shape a vibrant scene of Black entertainment and expression. LaVilla saw the first published account of blues sung on its stage.

Carmen: LaVilla was also coined “Harlem of the South.” By the early 20th century, LaVilla was thriving as a cultural and business hub for Black communities. Ashley Street was lined with theaters, clubs and hotels that welcomed prominent African-American performers and offered lodging during the segregation era. Venues like the Strand, Frolic, Globe and Roosevelt theaters, along with the Wynn later known as Egmont Hotel, were at the heart of the scene.

Ambar: The 1990s River City Renaissance plan destroyed many of the historical buildings that were significant to LaVilla’s influence on jazz and blues.

Carmen: Hmm. Old habits die hard, I guess?

Ambar: They sure do! Have you seen what the Wynn/Egmont Hotel looks like today? There’s not much left of the spot where few found solace during segregation, including the legendary jazz artist Louis Armstrong who famously loved staying and performing at the now nearly deteriorated hotel. 

Carmen: Oh, have I. I used to drive by that monstrosity every day. 

Ambar: While LaVilla deteriorated, the jazz scene never left the Bold City. 

Carmen: Cue the 1980 All That Jazz Festival in Mayport. In an effort to put the Bold New City of the South back on the map and breathe new life into the struggling fishing community of Mayport, Mayor Jake Godbold launched the Mayport and All That Jazz Festival. Festival producers were stunned when their expected crowd of a few hundred ballooned to nearly 25,000 spectators, all there to catch Dizzy Gillespie headline the event. 

Ambar: While the Jazz Festival faced a few bumps along the road and a couple of hiatuses, it recently celebrated its 40th year in 2021. But enough about the Jazz Festival, let’s talk about the infamous musicians that came out of Jacksonville

Carmen: For starters, Ray Charles?! While originally born in Albany, Georgia, Charles grew up in Florida and attended the St. Augustine School of the Deaf and Blind. Arguably the most famous musician to come out of Jacksonville (technically), he was a legendary singer, songwriter and pianist who played a huge role in shaping jazz, blues and soul music. He’s often credited with creating the genre of soul music itself.

Ambar: James Weldon Johnson (park) & John Rosamond Johnson (no park) were born and raised in Jacksonville. While James (park) was known for his writing and civil rights work with his brother (no park John) they were a musical duo to be reckoned with. Their song “Lift Ev’ry Voice and Sing” became the Black National Anthem.

Carmen: I’m sorry. I physically cannot focus after reading “no park John.” What am I even supposed to say after that? Why didn’t John get his own park? Where is his looming statue? Justice for John (no park).

Ambar: We dedicate this column to you, “no park John.” Anyway, it wasn’t just musicians that set this city apart from other jazz hubs; Historical venues (not talking about the park) were also born from this movement. 

Carmen: I wasn’t done talking about the parks, but OK. Anyway (can you tell we wrote this at midnight?), the Ritz Theatre opened in 1929 and quickly became the epicenter for LaVilla’s entertainment scene. After a period of decline, the Ritz was reopened in 1999 and now stands, still as a theater, but also as a museum dedicated to keeping the rich history alive and well. 

Ambar: Jacksonville’s jazz scene may have faded from its heyday, but the echoes are still there — in street names, in murals and in the stories passed down. 

Carmen: Damn, that was beautiful.

Ambar: Thanks, came up with it all on my own.

Carmen: You deserve a park.