Most of y’all remember Columbus for “discovering” the New World in 1492. Columbus, an Italian from Genoa (then one of the most powerful cities in the world), manipulated the Spanish into sponsoring a new route to the West Indies. Why? For food, of course, specifically spices. Instead, he sailed into the American continents.
Though this was quite a cool accomplishment in itself, it led to so much more than just Europeans colonizing
the Americas.
The more significant result of his voyage was the opening of the Columbian Exchange, which changed the world’s palate for the better. If it weren’t for Columbus, Italians wouldn’t have the tomato, the Irish wouldn’t have potatoes, Thais wouldn’t have chili peppers, and the Swiss wouldn’t have chocolate.
You could say Columbus was responsible for all modern cuisine. No wonder he’s such a revered figure in Italy and, believe you me, the Italians will not let this go.
When the Spanish began to send expeditions looking for gold, they brought back foodstuffs, which turned out to be far more important than gold. The Portuguese also got into the act and began to transport foods from the Americas to India and Asia. With this infusion of new and exotic foods, contemporary ethnic cuisines began to develop.
These new foods were not immediately accepted. For example, tomatoes were considered ornamental until some hungry southern Italian cooks got ahold of them and began to Chef Up the humble tomato, realizing its potential as a contrast for cheeses, and as a healthful and versatile sauce for pastas.
The tomato slowly began to find its way farther north in Italy, where it was used as a sweetener in richer sauces and ragouts, which are rich, complex, layered braises or stews requiring skill and passion, not that garbage sold in a jar and not sautéed ground beef with tomato sauce. A well-executed ragout is truly an awe-inspiring treasure to be cherished and adored!
Try this amazing duck ragout with tagliatelle; you can thank me after you recover from your food coma.
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Chef Bill’s Duck Ragout
Ingredients
- 8 duck legs, skin off
- 1 onion, brunoise
- 1 carrot, brunoise
- 1 celery stalk, brunoise
- 4 garlic cloves, paste
- 2 cup pancetta, small dice
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, rosemary)
- 4 oz. white wine
- 3 tbsp. tomato paste
- 4 oz. white wine
- 10 oz. red wine
- 32 oz. diced tomatoes
- 2 qts. beef broth
- 1 qt. chicken broth
- Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
- Season the duck legs with salt and pepper, sear in a Dutch oven. Remove duck, drain excess fat, lower the heat and brown the pancetta.
- When the pancetta begins to brown, add the vegetables and sweat.
- Stir in tomato paste and increase heat, deglaze with white wine. Reduce au sec. Deglaze with red wine and reduce by half.
- Add the stocks, duck, diced tomatoes, and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer. Cover with a paper lid and then foil and place in a 325˚F oven. Check after one hour, continue to cook until the duck is fork-tender, adding more stock if necessary.
- Remove duck, shred. Skim any excess fat from the sauce and reduce to thicken. Return the duck and adjust the seasoning.
Until we cook again,
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Contact Chef Bill Thompson, owner of Amelia Island Culinary Academy in Historic Fernandina Beach, at cheffedup@folioweekly.com with your recipes or questions, to find inspiration and get you Cheffed Up!
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