FOLIOAnticipation can defeat success. That’s what I felt coming out of Moxie Kitchen. I wanted to love Moxie with no reservations, but the restaurant isn’t quite “there” yet. It’s new, so it’s got some bumps to get over, but under Tom Gray’s deft supervision, it’s going to be (and is) one of the hottest places to eat in the Town Center. Still, expectations are set very high, and that’s tough for a new restaurant.
Their cocktail crafting skills get high marks, so if you’re crazy about a well-designed drink, Moxie should totally be the place you drink whenever you’re at the St. Johns Town Center. Moxie sports some great décor, balanced between modern and rustic. Check out the upstairs if you’re just popping in for drinks and appetizers with friends. Downstairs, noise is muffled by the high booths.
There’s an aura of exclusivity about Moxie, and it’s clear that you, as the customer, should feel lucky to be there. This atmosphere will serve them well when it comes to dinner business meetings or for salesmen hoping to woo a client. But on the minus side, exclusivity isn’t incredibly welcoming. The staff is polite, but they aren’t very friendly. This is common in high-end restaurants, but not everything signals that Moxie is high-end. The kettle corn and pork rinds on the menu let you know that the food is Southern-inspired.
Moxie’s identity is hard to pin down, just like categorizing their cuisine. It’s placed in that catch-all of “New American.” There are hip, diner-type items such as their chicken and waffles ($20), alongside more traditionally upscale items such as filet mignon ($48). Depending on your palate, things are hit-or-miss. The Dr. Pepper short ribs ($20) are super sweet, but so is Dr. Pepper. Some folks will dig it, some won’t. I adored the crispy chicken liver appetizer ($8), but my dining companion didn’t. She doesn’t like chicken livers, so it’s understandable. But because I do like them, I thought the blue cheese and hot sauce sprinkled livers were just brilliant. Quick fried, they have the perfect bite, not rubbery like some I’ve encountered. The simple, but well-executed Scottish Salmon ($25) also put a smile on my face.
The menu can be challanging to navigate, because it’s a little short on descriptions and trendy enough to be intimating to some diners. Because of this, the staff has to know this menu incredibly well. If you tell them what you like, they, like a wine sommelier, should be able guide you to the right choice. I think they’ll be to that point within a month. In the meantime, come into Moxie with relaxed expectations. It’s a young restaurant with great legs under it; it just needs a little time to develop.
Follow FOLIO!