Exorbitant Agua

In August, the upscale restaurant at Los Angeles County Museum of Art announced it would soon add a 20-item selection of waters from around the world, priced from $8 to $16 a bottle (except for a $12 “tasting menu”). General manager of Ray’s & Stark Bar Martin Riese, who’s also a renowned water gourmet, will sell his own California-made 9OH2O, available in “limited editions of 10,000 individually numbered glass bottles” at $14 each. “[M]any people don’t know water is just as important to the entire dining experience [as, say, a good wine],” Riese said. He’s been certified as a water sommelier by the German Mineral Water Association.