HANDS ON!

by Alina Kodatt
When Tony Gelaye decided to open up an Ethiopian restaurant in Jacksonville, he knew he was facing a pretty big obstacle: most Americans have never heard of, much less tried, Ethiopian cuisine. In fact when I first heard about it, I had literally no idea what to expect. But being a curious mind with an adventurous appetite, I rolled up my sleeves and gave Tony a call.
Open since January of this year, Queen of Sheba is a labor of love for Tony, his sister Melat, and mother Yeshi. It’s a family affair, mom and Tony cooking and Melat helping outside of the kitchen. I made my way to this restaurant on Atlantic Boulevard and arrived to find it tucked away in humble, nondescript strip mall. I sat down and spoke briefly with Tony while his mother prepared the meal. Within a few minutes, a large platter (think 16 inch pizza pan) was placed before me, a vegetarian and meat sampler platter.
The bottom of the pan was covered with the traditional Ethiopian bread called Injera, a pancake-like sourdough bread which also doubled as the utensils for the meal. Atop the Injera lay a variety of thick stews (Wat) and sauces, varying in colors and textures. Upon first glance, I could most readily associate this meal before me with Indian food. It had a similar look: savory sauces made of legumes and vegetables, deliciously slow-cooked and well spiced.
I sat there and looked up to my native hosts to show me how to proceed. Without hesitation, Melat tore off a piece of the bread and scooped up a portion of stew she selected. I did the same, only slightly aware of the awkwardness of eating with my hands and sharing a plate with someone else. From there, I methodically moved from one delicious stew to the next, taking note of the complexity of flavors and textures. Each was rich and savory from the onions, garlic, ginger, and other spices typical in Ethiopian dishes. This was comfort food at its best.
While I enjoyed all of the offerings, a few really stood out. The lamb stew (Ye-beg Alicha) simmered with garlic, onions and spiced butter was a favorite, causing me to dispense with my manners and ask outright, “What’s this?” The split red lentils cooked in a red pepper sauce (Misir wot) was also delicious and suitable for a vegetarian yet having enough gusto to please even the most ardent meat-eater. The steamed collard greens (Yeabesha Gomen), garlicky and slightly tangy, cut through the spiciness of the other sauces. Fresh cheese, made on site, was served as a cool and creamy contrast. Finally, to wash it all down, Melat brought me a cup of traditional Ethiopian honey wine (Tej), sweet and refreshing.
As we ate and drank, we chatted about Ethiopian dining practices in contrast to those here in America. They described meal time in Ethiopia as a lengthy social activity. Practices such as eating with the hands, sharing platters of food, and feeding companions at the table to express affection (gursha) are just a few of the ways in which meals are a vehicle to express hospitality and foster community. Melat was being candid when she said, “Everybody’s door is open in Ethiopia. Everyone is welcome. The first time I came here, I saw everybody’s door closed and thought, ‘Whoa, this is hard.’”
The doors of Queen of Sheba are always open for the coffee ceremony, an ancient ritual still practiced three times a day in Ethiopia. Tony and Melat encourage diners to order fresh coffee for the perfect conclusion to their meal. In this practice, Ethiopian coffee beans are roasted, ground and brewed, the aroma filling the restaurant as you sit and talk. The coffee is then served in three rounds, inviting diners to relax, socialize and experience that same hospitable slowing down that the Ethiopian people have perfected.
As I sat there, I was amazed and grateful how seriously this family takes their cultural practices, and I realized that this is perhaps one of the most quality examples of an authentic foreign restaurant I’ve seen in a long time. From the care taken in ordering traditional ingredients straight from Ethiopia to the making of fresh Injera bread, cheese and wine to the roasting coffee beans on site–they’ve kept it as traditional as I would imagine possible being so far from home. And with prices ranging from $6- $12 an entree, this seems almost too good to be true. But somehow they’ve managed to appeal to more than just the adventurous eater looking for something different to eat. They equally welcome the meat-lover, vegetarian, gluten-free (Injera bread contains no gluten) and health-conscious (fresh, organic, never frozen ingredients).
I find Melat’s words endearing. “If we didn’t have a restaurant, we would eat like this anyways,” she tells me, referring to the quantity and quality of work involved in preparing her family’s native cuisine. But with food so fresh and tasty, I know I’m glad they didn’t just keep it in the family. The eatery is open on Mondays 4- 11 pm, Tuesdays- Sunday 11- 11 pm. Groups of six or more call for reservations. All major credit cards are accepted.