by oliver dodd
Diners exploded onto the scene across the US during the early 20th century. Many would say that they had their heyday during the 1950’s. Jacksonville’s own Johnny Angel’s Diner (3546 Saint Johns Bluff Rd. S, 997-9850) attempts to capture the essence and vibrant optimism of this monumental decade when the world’s civilizations were undergoing radical changes and the US, in the midst of a post-war economic boom, began its decades long youth-based cultural revolution. Located near the intersection of Saint Johns Bluff and Beach Boulevard and (not to be confused with Angel’s Diner in Palatka) Jonny Angel’s recalls the heyday of diners rather than actually harkening from that bygone era. Pictures of 50’s and 60’s celebrities line the walls and the televisions play classic shows like I Love Lucy and The 3 Stooges.
Glancing at the expansive menu, the food appears fairly typical despite many of the items being named after celebrities, songs, and shows from the mid 20th century (Blueberry Hill Pancakes, Big Bopper Steak and Eggs, The Richie Cunningham). There are a few modern creations like the Baja Burrito (blackened fish, fresh salsa, lettuce, cilantro, and Monterey Jack cheese on a sun-dried tomato wrap) but the choices, by large, are standard diner fare. The quality, on the other hand, isn’t so typical.
The siren’s call of the fish burrito was strong, but in the end the Ozzie and Harriet won out. A three egg omelette packed with fresh mushrooms, peppers, onions, tomatoes, broccoli, and zucchini; this has to be the best and biggest veggie omelette in at least all of North Florida. The eggs were light and fluffy while the vegetables still retained much of their crispness. Served with some salad greens, a biscuit, and grits (because this is the South), this enormous meal will leave you full of food, not full of regret.
But if you want some more traditional diner fare, don’t hesitate to order a burger. Succulent, fresh, and bordering on the excessively large, it puts many of the top rated burger joints around town to shame.
In the sweet arena, their shakes have a reputation for being quite sublime. Whether you’re looking to celebrate American culture, indulge in a little bit of 50’s nostalgia, or just grab a good meal, Johnny Angel’s Diner is one of the best options you probably never knew you had. You can buy gift certificates at half price from WBOB by calling 470-4615.
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