For the 15 years I've lived in Jacksonville and eaten my way across town, I've somehow missed El Ranchito, which I learned has been here since 2000.
Perhaps that's because it's not easy to spot, given its tucked-away location in a plaza at the intersection at Beach and San Pablo. Nonetheless, it's well worth stopping there.
The menu is sectioned into three cuisines: traditional Colombian, Cuban and Mexican.
With rumbling stomachs, we started with café con leche ($2.50) and the empanadas Columbiana (six for $4.99), corn pockets filled with a mix of ground beef and spices and served with a light but flavorful, finely minced salsa. Bypassing other favorites like assorted arepas, shrimp ceviche with tostones and fried yucca with mojo sauce, we instead went with the sopa del dia, which on Sundays is sancocho de gallina ($10 with white rice, plantains and salad), a traditional Columbian chicken-and-vegetable soup that I'd never seen around this area. It was a tasty medley of chicken broth, corn, green plantains, potatoes and cilantro.
We shared the Columbian bandeja paisa ($13.99) — an almost-unwieldy platter loaded with flank sirloin steak, a plump pork sausage, crispy pork belly, egg, sweet plantains, corn cake, avocado, rice (yellow or white) and beans (black or red). It was great for sharing, and gave us a little taste of a lot of items.
We were eager to also try some of the many Cuban offerings on the menu, but we were torn between the picadillo and the ropa vieja, so we flipped a coin. The vieja won — and it turned out to be a winner, with shredded flank steak, a peppery sauce, garlic, onion, tomatoes and bell peppers, and a side of vibrant yellow rice.
I can't wait to return for happy hour ($1.80 domestic beers, $2.25 imports) and try all the items I was too full to order on my inaugural visit — the Cuban sandwich, lechon asado, traditional Cuban empanadas, tres leches, and perhaps something (or everything) from the Mexican side of the menu, too.
• Top Chef season 7 winner Kevin Sbraga announced plans to open a restaurant in Brooklyn's 220 Riverside in early 2015.
• Tapa That in 5 Points is now serving breakfast, 7-10:30 a.m., in addition to its lunch and dinner service.